Sassoon Docks: Smelly, stinky but real

I have never smelled anything as such in my life, seriously.

Walking through Colaba Causeway, one of the popular market places in South Mumbai, through narrow lanes and a not-so-busy Sunday traffic, we (me and my photojournalist friend) navigated to Sassoon Docks. The smell of fish welcomed us at the entry. And since it was a dock and one of Mumbai’s largest fish markets, I was aware of what I was into.

With our cameras prepared for some shots, Nathan and I walked past the entrance. Just a few steps and the smell intensified. An old woman, probably in her 70s, was drying up the fishes. We quickly tried to capture her through our lenses. But unfortunately, people started yelling, “No, no.” Photography is not allowed at all times at the dock. We walked to the custom officials who are stationed at the dock and tried to inquire. “Your cameras will be confiscated. Put them in,” he said in a polite tone. We could, however, walk around the market though.

By this time I started to feel sick. The pungent smell of fish, prawns and all other dead sea creatures twisted my stomach, literally. For a moment, I even stopped to puke but that didn’t happen.

We walked around and found women and children working in groups: sorting out fishes, prawns and cleaning them and men sitting amid them as if they were guarding them or supervising. Men bathed in corner, cleaned the corners and some were busy in their boats, ready with their nets for a day at the sea. But we couldn’t talk to anyone since no one seemed interested. They were busy working.

After almost 30 minutes, we started walking out. We tried to find other people to see if they could connect us to someone who would help us take pictures. But all in vain.

But I’d say it was an experience after all. Underneath the superficial beauty and hip culture of the city, we experienced something real–not built for tourists or preserved for any commercial interest but in its true form. Smelly, stinky but real life. And isn’t real life stinky anyways?

My journey continues…

It’s been a month that I’m here in the commercial capital of India, and I should say I’m getting used to the cosmopolitan city. I’ve attended more parties that I thought I would, I’ve worked on more stories than I thought I would do and met more people than I thought I would meet. All and all, a good experience so far.

A restaurant behind The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, one of the places for the 26/11 terror attacks, pays tribute its way.

I witnessed the commemoration of the 26/11 terror attacks in Mumbai that killed 166 people. I had an interview scheduled at the Taj, where the attacks took place, that morning. But then there was a last-minute change. It was an hour-and-a-half taxi ride from Bandra to Colaba, and on my way, there were tribute signs all over. Billboards stood in the middle of the streets paying homage to the dead souls and appreciating the efforts of security personnel. Newspapers carried several stories, television channels were flooded with same. Outside some houses were small tributes on sheets on paper and at railway stations (Churchgate station, from where I boarded the train on my way back to Bandra) booths were set up to commemorate one of the darkest days in Indian history.

But amid everything, it was everyday life in Mumbai; it was like any other day. The traffic was congested (I reached my interview ten minutes late), people were rushing toward work, the trains were packed. But deep down, it would be difficult for the Mumbaikars to forget the day and the hours that followed (60 hours of terror, as many proclaim) because they lived those hours and it’s a part of their lives.

Shifting gears to my life now. Interestingly, I’ve been working on a lot  of fun stuff– interviewed three Bollywood actresses, Neha Dhupia, Minissha Lamba and Mugda Godse; Tommaso Cavalli, Roberto Cavalli’s son, for the launch of Roberto Cavalli vodka in India; a chit chat with Sabira Merchant, the one who initiated the disco club, Studio 29, in Mumbai; and American singer-songwriter Terra Naomi.

Needless to say about the parties that revolved around these interviews–the Roberto Cavalli party, the Studio 29 back to the 80s party and Terra’s performance and a party on a bar crawling bus!

India on Stage –For its annual fiesta, Prithvi brings together some known names like Adishakti and Ninasam, and other young theatre troupes

By: Bibek Bhandari
Published: Yuva
Issue: November 1-15

From November 7 to 20, Prithvi Theatre, the cultural icon of Mumbai, will celebrate its annual theatrical fiesta. As a part of the festival, which started in 1983, the theatre has knitted the artistic fabric for theatres of India with artists from diverse backgrounds and different parts of India.

Sanjna Kapoor, director of Prithvi Theatre and artistic director for the festival, says, “Theatres of India” is trying to explore and celebrate the variance of Indian theatre.

“We’re stirring up quite a delicious array of the variety that Indian theatre offers today in different ways.”

Performing at three different venues—Prithvi Theatre, Karnataka Sangha and Horniman Circle Garden— are Indian theatre’s prominent groups: Adishakti from Pondicherry, Ninasam from Karnataka and Nirman Kala Manch from Patna. And adding a new zing to theatre performance with their modish touch are: Ranan from Kolkata, Theatre Roots and Wings from Kerala, Amitesh Grover from New Delhi and Sridhar/Thayil from Mumbai.

“They’re a sprinkling of younger works,” Kapoor said. “Each one of those are looking to find a language of their own in theatre.”
For Sridhar/Thayil’s “The Flying Wallas: Open Noir,” it’s a debut at the festival. This is a lyrical conversation between ghost and a soprano about God, murder and showbiz; an opera with an Indian twist.

“Opera has become a white, upper class form of entertainment, of excluding much of the world,” said Jeet Thayil. “This [The Flying Wallas] is the opposite. It’s for everyone.”

Ranan, which combines dance with other artistic expressions as design, film and music, is showcasing their rendition of Peter Shaffer’s “Equus.” The play delves into the world of a 12-year-old boy and his fascination with horses.

Vikram Iyengar, co-founder of Ranan and director of Equus, said that it is the group’s first performance in Mumbai since the show’s Kolkata premier in April.

Amitesh Grover’s “The Hamlet Quartet” is an exploration of theater and live multimedia, which adds a new dimension to theatre’s contemporariness.

Roots & Wing’s “Sahyande Makan -The Elephant Project” is a collaborative work between Indian and Japanese artists. A poetic performance, the play tells the story of a bull elephant’s reminiscent of his childhood and reality of being a slave to man.

Kapoor says that along with the creative director for the festival, Sameera Iyengar, their team has seen the performances or rehearsals of these young artists.

“We’ve had our antenna out and kept track of what’s going on, and it seems like these are really exciting works,” Kapoor said.

According to Sameera, this year’s festival is a blend of old and new.

“We’re looking at these two separate kinds of theaters—one that has been around for long time, who have already developed a language and one which is trying to find a new language [in the theatrical platform].”

However, interesting a young crowd to watch a play becomes a challenge when they’re intertwined with digital media and the Internet.

Vikram states instead of competing with electronic media, theatre should maintain equality with other media.

“They have to find ways to connect to younger audience,” the 33-year-old director says.

“We [Ranan] try to demystify the process of the performance and try to make it enjoyable and interesting to connect to the audience…figure out how to talk to the youth.”

Speaking on a similar note, Kapoor says that theatre is even more valid and is a necessity amid other media; it brings a performance alive.

“People need it more than ever before because electronic media has detached us from actual touch and feel of another human being—hear, smell and engage with,” she says.

The festival will pay a tribute to Habib Tanvir and his Naya Theatre with a series of photographs under the show “On the Road with Naya Theatre,” which documents the troupe’s journey through several Indian cities and towns, and even Europe.

Week Number Three

So my third week in Mumbai: great. There were more stories to work on and some events to attend, which are always great! (I’m using an exclamation thought not a big fan of it while writing. We were told NOT to use them!)

Attended the book launch of William Dalrymple’s Nine Lives at the Taj Lands End hotel. Susheela Raman performed–amazing vocals!

Went for the first Rolling Stone event—Beat Sessions, a night of indie music. An artist from Switzerland played some songs with his guitar. And then the small crowd grooved to some indie/electronic fusion music. As to what I’ve known, the music scene here revolves mostly around heavy metal and electronic (I might be wrong though).

Went to IIT Mumbai to interview students organizing the Mood Indigo festival. What a rickshaw ride it was—an hour and ten minutes from Bandra to Powaii.  Walking inside the campus—ah, away from the city sights and sounds!

Attended the Mumbai Wine Festival at the Pier of the Bombay Presidency Radio Club—and of course tasted some wines. Got a quote from Prahlad Kakkar, well-known ad film director.

Checked in at the Taj Lands End hotel—loved the Paan Martini.

Hope to work on some more stories!

And I’m sprinkling a lot of exclamations tonight!!!!

 

P.S. Please check my Facebook for pictures. Right now I’m too lazy to post them here!

It’s Week Two

Got more stories—interviews, transcribing, writing

Met people—Sanjna Kapoor (watched her on TV on a show as a child), met someone from Dallas who lives at University Dr. and other University of Southern California alums working on their social entrepreneurship careers.

Got squashed in the bus. got squashed in the local train.

Visited more places—Prithvi Theater, ISKON temple, which brought back memories of my first story for the Skiff (punk turned into a Hindu monk), Haji Ali, a famous mosque, Mahalaxmi, the clothes washing district, Marine Drive, again through Colaba Causeway and Gateway of India.

Mahalaxmi: It’s the place where people hand wash clothes. Known as “Dhobis,” it’s their profession. In the backdrop, the face of modern Mumbai with high rise constructions taking over the city’s skyline.

Haji Ali, a famous mosque in Mumbai

Inside Haji Ali

Poeple, old, young, disabled, all line up outside Haji Ali. The little girl is one of the most adorable ones I came across.

Marine Drive

Sunset at Marine Drive

Juhu Beach, Mumbai: Not Your Typical Beach

Babes in bikinis and bare chest, half-naked men basking the sun and surfing the waves: a typical sight at the beach. But not at Juhu Beach. Instead, it’s a swarm of nicely attired people— women in colorful saris decked with jewelry, children in their cute clothes and men in their casual best—with their pants and saris slightly pulled, gently dipping their feet in the Arabian Sea.

As the bus stopped at Chowpatty, almost everyone unloaded the crammed bus. Their smiling, cheerful faces were an apparent expression of their happiness to be at the beach. As I walked further to the beach, it was the Sunday rush—families, newly weds, lovebirds, hawkers, vendors and tourists.

When I noticed families picnicking at the beach and diving into water with their clothes on, it reminded me of the Labor Day weekend at Galveston, Texas, where Hispanic families in large number were having cookouts and jumping into the water with their clothes on.  A world apart, the basic idea is togetherness and fun.

As I strolled further with my camera, people gazed and smiled. A girl walked passed me and coaxed me to have a henna tattoo. “It will look good on you,” she said. I smiled. Then a boy approaches me with his pet monkey. “He will break dance for you. Want to see?” he says. And then I notice a family with three children putting together a show for the crowd. I couldn’t make a judgment how happy these kids were to be working and wondered if they even go to school. But they seemed happy working with their family, for the family. Even after someone rejected to buy something from them, the children turned away with a smile hopping toward another customer.

As dusk approached, the beach became overly crowded. Due to the thousands of footsteps, the sand seemed rugged and looked brown like a kabaddi field. And so it was perfect for people playing cricket, not beach volleyball. The environment at the beach was no less than an American state fair—a mini wooden Ferris wheel for the children; constant hollering from concerned mothers as their children rushed toward the water; sounds of excitement from the juvenile crowd; vendors with toys, cotton candies, coconuts, pani puris and shaved ice repeatedly calling people; Bollywood songs blaring from cell phones and the nearby stores; and happy faces topping the list.

As I looked on to every face, their eyes glittered with joy. Away from that beach, they might have their lives—easy or tough—but that minute, it seemed they were living the moment: families having a great weekend, couples finding their escapade, vendors trying to make the best of their week, all with a smile. Looking at the sea of playful people who came to the beach to enjoy their Sunday, I got lost into my thoughts.

It doesn’t take much to be happy. You just need to be with the people who make you happy and spend some time with them, share yourself—family, friends, girlfriend, boyfriend or a spouse. You don’t need to get away to Jumeirah Beach, Dubai, or South Beach, Florida. Looking at those cheerful people at Juhu Beach, I say it’s possible to be happy without any expensive vacations or treats. Just a shaved ice at Juhu Beach would do.

At Juhu Beach, no bikinis, no swim trunks, no fuss about how others will judge you. No booze or drama. Just a moment of happiness with thousands of others seeking the same.

Indianization of some American brands!

Cruising the streets of Mumbai, I came across several American brands modified to suit the local market and taste. No where can you get McAloo (a sandwich with patato patty) at McD’s or Veggie Snack at KFC. And the advertisements for Billabong and Abercrombie clothes for Sale was something.

Click on the pictures for a larger view.

Mumbai and Rolling Stone: Week One

Sunday

After a rushed transit in New Delhi, I landed in Mumbai. And after a sweaty and an unpleasant cab ride, I finally found the apartment that would be my home for the coming days.

Why unpleasant? I took a pre-paid cab from the airport to Pali Hill. The driver couldn’t find his way there and after we reached to the area, he had a difficulty finding the apartment. So he asked me to pay him more. I tried to explain him that his was a pre-paid service but to no avail.  Tired and energy less, I paid him. Welcome to India, I thought.

So tired that I didn’t even bothered to take a leap out of the apartment.

Monday

The next day I went around cruising the city. My first stop, obviously, the Gateway of India.  Traveling on the packed local train from Bandra Station with thousands of people was an experience: the smell of sweat, the scent of someone’s cologne, the aroma of Indian food from someone’s lunch box all mixed up. And then someone sneezes in the packed compartment. I thought—how easy is it for swine flu to spread.

A not-so-crowded local train in Mumbai

After a 30-minute train ride, I got off at Churchgate Station and walked across the street. It’s so fascinating to see—in countries like India and my native Nepal—that the roads are for everyone, literally. Cows, dogs, people and vehicles all share the same road. You speak of obstructions? It’s manageable.

Navigating through the dense traffic and over crowded sidewalks occupied by vendors selling souvenirs, ice creams and all that you can imagine, I caught a glimpse of the Taj Hotel. As I quickened my steps toward the site of the terrorist attack, my attention was quickly diverted toward the Louis Vuitton and Bvalgari store at the hotel and then the huge mass of tourists adjacent to the hotel— Families, children, couples posing for pictures and hawkers busy trying to convince tourists to get their best shots in front of Gateway if India.

The Gateway of India…As I was going around the magnificent structure, my stomach started growling. So a quick lunch and a search for an Internet Café. And there, people had to give all their contact details including their passport numbers to browse the Internet. I guess, security huh!

Then I strolled across the narrow sidewalks swarmed with stores. Mostly Indian souvenirs and goods along with counterfeit American brands lined up the stores, and every other store was a jewelry or a shoe store.

After a sweaty afternoon, I called it a day.

Tuesday

I woke up all excited. It was my first day at Rolling Stone. Oh, I couldn’t believe I was stepping into the Rolling Stone office. I reached there 30 minutes earlier. Oh well! After some introductions, I made myself comfortable at a desk. It was Rolling Stone! But the office is also shared by other two publications, Man’s World and Yuva.

Didn’t do a lot on my first day. Sat, sat and sat and watched everyone as they were doing their work. And then at the end of the day, I prepared a quiz about Robbie Williams for the magazine.

Wednesday

Not a whole lot to do since everything for the November issue was on a close. So I sat and sat and sat. And then I worked on another quiz for the magazine.

And then one of the staff writers asked if someone wanted to review Shakira’s new album She Wolf. I snatched it. At least I had something on my plate now.

Thursday

I finished reviewing Shakira’s album—a short review of 200 words. Oh, I so remember doing reviews for class and thinking about the grades!

Friday

I again sat and sat and sat. I talked to the editor of Yuva if I could contribute. Started working on “Ways to go Green” since their next issue focused on climate change.

In the evening, I strolled across the “beach” at Carter Road. I couldn’t see the sea since it was dark. What I saw in the stretch of sidewalk—people jogging, families enjoying their ice creams and shaved ice and a lot of young couples holding hands and a little bit of public display of affection.

Saturday

I’m not supposed to be at the office today but came in to finish my piece for Yuva, and of course, to surf the Internets! And while here, got another assignment—a piece on Jay Sean’s latest single “Down” being on the No. 1 spot on the Billboard 100 chart.

Sunday

My only plan for tomorrow—Juhu Beach. Let’s see how this one goes.

Arctic Monkeys gets love from Dallas audience

Photo: Arctic Monkeys Web site

The basic ingredients of a rock concert magnetized the crowd at the Palladium Ballroom on Monday: loud drum beats and guitar chords combined with the vocal aptitude to go along with the music, flying cups, shoes and yes, even people being swayed in the air.

The Arctic Monkeys presented their Dallas fans with a show full of loud music and energetic vibes. The British lads certainly didn’t look tired from their performance at the Austin City Limits on Sunday, a day prior to their North Texas presentation.
In a closed auditorium packed with fans of all ages, Jamie Cook (guitar), Matt Helders (drums), Nick O’Malley ((bass), replacement for Andy Nicholson, and Alex Turner (vocalist) of the Arctic Monkeys fed their fans with music from past to present. However, hearing songs from their latest album “Humbug,” it seemed apparent that the band was trying to promote their album and their new sound, which sounds a little heavier than what they initially offered in “Five Minutes With Arctic Monkeys” and “Whatever People Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not.”

The audience closer to the stage jumped and held their hands to the music almost the entire show. After singing “Sketchead,” front man Turner said, “That was for all the fellows,” and suddenly cut into “I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor,” saying, “This one is for you ladies.”

And the sighs and screams from the ladies—obvious.

In about two hours, the Arctic Monkeys delivered a good lineup—“Crying Lighting,” “Pretty Visitors” and “505” leaving out songs such as “Fake Tales of San Francisco” and the UK chart-topper “When the Sun Goes Down” from their 2006 Mercury Prize-winning album “Whatever People Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not.” The Mercury Prize is an annual award for the best music album from the UK or Ireland.

Nonetheless, the quartet mingled with the Dallas crowd effortlessly giving them a pretty good musical performance, which could have been better inclusive of past chart toppers.

Dressed in a black Arctic Monkey t-shirt, Turner thanked the Dallas audience in his British accent time and again in between songs and before their final exit from the stage. And in return, the Arctic Monkeys were gifted with applaud, cheers and screams from satisfying spectators.

Austin City Limits: A view from my living room

The annual music mayhem in Austin, Texas, might be a right of passage for many music junkies from surrounding areas. Like other music fests such as Bonnaroo, Lollapalooza, and Coachella Valley Music and Art Festival, Austin City Limits, better known as ACL, has created its reputation in the world of music festivals.

As I couldn’t pack my bags and drive three hours south from Dallas, I thought my weekend was going to be a waste: I’d be home all day, sleeping and watching TV. Yes, that was true. But I didn’t know I would be watching the festival live from my living room. A big thank you to Hulu, the site, which streams TV series, and the ACL Web site itself for streaming the acts live from Austin.

As I could see in my TV, Zilker Park was packed with thousands of fans. And I only wished if I were there. Nevertheless, I could see my favorite artists sitting on my couch (not exciting!). But I wouldn’t be ale to select the performances; only selected artists are streamed live.

Day 1: My first taste of the festival was The Avett Brothers, a folk-rock band from North Carolina.  What I heard for the first time from this band: good music.

Then it was Dr. Dog. When they appeared on stage, I wished if I were amid that crowd, cheering for them. They did put on a pretty good performance making their fans roar with excitement.

And I missed Andrew Bird’s performance.  And Kings of Leon were not invited to the cyberspace.

Day 2: The second day’s line up looked exciting. A gloomy afternoon, what better would it be to stay cozy and watch my favorite artists.

As I connected my computer to the TV and started streaming the Web cast, it was pouring rain, umbrellas and raincoats at Zilker Park. But the spirits were high and the music on.  The bands I really wanted to see were welcomed to the Web cast—The Decemberists and Ghostland Observatory.

But before them, Alberta Cross, The Walkmen, The Airborne Toxic Event and Flogging Molly were entertaining enough.

As The Decemberists started their gig at 7, I felt sorry for not being there. The intensity of their music combined with their spirited show swayed the audience. The New York Times’ Nate Chinen described The Decemberists’ performance as one with the “Most Literary Allusion,” referring to the verse of one their songs, Hazards of Love 1, from their latest album: “The prettiest whistles won’t wrestle the thistles undone.”

And to end the night, what a lively performance by Ghostland Observatory: The thumping electro, rock, funk by this local Austin band, glowing neon wristbands and headbands, laser light and the crowd grooving crazy with the duo’s psychedelic music livened and dazzled Zilker Park in the dark.

I wonder if the Dave Matthews Band, playing simultaneously at another stage, delivered a great show.

Day 3: Coming to day three, I don’t know if I’m still interested to watch the bands on TV. I’ve already missed The Dodos and the only band I’m looking forward to watch tonight is The Dead Weather—combination of Jack White from The White Stripes, Alison Mosshart of The Kills, Dean Fertita from Queens of the Stone Age and Jack Lawrence of The Raconteurs. This performance might be getting a slice of all these bands combined together.

And of course, there is Pearl Jam. Unfortunately, they are not being broadcasted on the Internet.

After ACL ends tonight, many bands are heading up to North Texas, the DFW Metroplex—Arctic Monkeys, Thievery Corporation, Ghostland Observatory and The Dead Weather to name a few.

And I’m catching the Monkeys tomorrow in Dallas.