From the archives: Climate Change Concert, Kashmir

Here is the story that I worked for Rolling Stone India while I interned at RS in Mumbai. This is possibly “the” assignment for me and my first story for which I had to travel. And traveling to Kashmir was just “the” experience.

For Terra Naomi, a crisp wintry morning in Srinagar seemed like a break from the Mumbai and Bengaluru humidity and the dusty roads of Delhi. Cozied up in her warm coat and woollen hat, the 30-year-old American singer-songwriter flashed a smile and smelled the fresh air stepping down the airplane. All excited to land at the last leg of her India tour, she digs for her iPhone and starts recording video for her blog— from the security check point at the airport, throughout the streets of Srinagar to the mountains and local people flocked in their warmest winter attire.

On the eve of the Climate Change Concert organized by Mercy Corps India, the climate conscious songster conversed with geologists, met environmental activists and ascended 9,000 feet upward to Gulmarg where she was briefed about Kashmir’s melting glaciers.

Immensely inspired by Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth, Naomi wrote and recorded her hit ‘Say It’s Possible,’ the highlight of the Srinagar show. While the world leaders gathered for the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, Denmark, on Dec. 7, Naomi sang amid a packed audience at the Sher-i-Kashmir International Conference Centre, urging the community to act toward an issue that is impacting the world, Kashmir being one of the major areas.

“Salaam Alaykum, Kashmir,” Naomi greeted the crowd in her American accent. Standing confidently in a black and white traditional salwaar kameez, the New York native chanted her signature song. ‘And though they say it’s possible/To me I don’t see how it’s probable,’ Naomi sings tunefully, caressing her guitar strings. The song is a clear statement on climate change and her appeal to combat a catastrophe.

“I’m not a scientist or a politician,” Naomi said before her gig. “I’m a musician. Music seems to reach the world and cross every border and reach different people as a unifying force. We would like to raise awareness for this region in the struggle against climate change.”

And in union, the Kashmiri choir and orchestra, led by Waheed Jeelani, followed Naomi’s performance. Standing in the background, the choir twinkled in their brightly coloured dresses and their leader stood poignant in a turquoise kurta as they erupted in a harmonic tune of optimism for Kahsmir’s future, ‘Ye Chu Bilkul Mumkin,” meaning ‘Say It’s Possible.’ The contrast between the classically enchanting Eastern ensemble and Western Americana with a rock ‘n’ roll twist resounded the auditorium yet the message in the music weaved common thread.  The audience roared with applause to the Kashmiri version and exploded with delight though Naomi struggled to sing the Kashmiri verses of ‘Karsa Meyon Neaianday’ with Jeelani. But she nailed it with panache with only a few hours of rehearsal.

“Learning a new song in a new language with a new style of singing in one day is challenging,” she said before the rehearsals. Sipping cappuccino and biting pieces of a chicken roll, she starts practising the song with Jeelani during the morning meet at a café and records it on her phone. “I want to do it,” she confides in an exciting tone with a little reflection of nervousness in her eyes.

And during the 60-minute gig, Naomi, along with her guitar, drugged the Kashmiris with her music. She sounded sharp and flirtatious in ‘You for Me,’ squashy in ‘Drugs Don’t Work,’ a cover of The Verve, and fully spirited in ‘Say It’s Possible.’ Before every song, she shared her emotional attachment with them, dedicating the compositions to her mother, deceased friend and the future man in her life.

As the first Western artist to perform in Kashmir, Naomi certainly has imprinted memories of a concert for many Kashmiris; as an artist she has underscored a cause with her music. With a successful show to her credit, Naomi walks out with a bright and breezy face into the chilly weather; she meets fans and the locals who’ve made the show a reality. And while most men held their hands for a handshake, Naomi wraps them with a hug in a typical American style—her way of appreciation.

Q & A: Sridhar/Thayil

An interview with one of India’s budding musicians/theater actor/play writers, here’s a Q & A published in Yuva, December 2009.

Koirala’s funeral procession

A sea of people chanting slogans, carrying pictures of former Nepali prime minister Girija Prasad Koirala, who died March 20, marched at his funeral procession past Sundhara.

A truck headed by the Nepal Army is ferrying his body to Aryaghat at Pashupatinath where the Nepali Congress leader will be cremated. As the truck passed through the crowd, the current Nepali Congress leader, Sushil Koirala, waived at the crowd; along with him with Girija’s daughter Sujata Koirala, who is also the deputy prime minster and foreign minister of the Himalayan republic, and other Nepali Congress leaders,  former prime minister Sher Bahadur Deuba and Ram Chandra Poudel.

People in thousands queued the pavements and walked the street along with the funeral procession. There were also people with shaved heads–a show of respect in the Hindu culture. And amid the procession,  some people remarked about Girijababu’s, as he is called, achievements and some even remarked that he should have been made the new republic’s first president. And not to forget, critical comments about him could also be overheard.

But all and all, it’s an end of an era, as it’s been said. And well of course, it is.

A huge mass of people take part in the funeral procession of NC Chairman Girija Prasad Koirala at Sundhara, Kathmandu on Sunday, March 21, 2010. Photo: Bijay Gajmer/Republica/Nagarik

In Nepali politics, it’s an end of an era

While coming to office today, overhearing a conversation between two old men on the vehicle was interesting. They were on their way to pay homage to the former Nepali prime minister Girija Prasad Koirala who died on March 20 at the age of 86. The old men, presumably in their 60s, talked about the leader, his role in Nepali politics and then his daughter, who is the current deputy prime minster and foreign minister.

Outside the office, a five-minute walk from the Dashrath Stadium, where Koirala’s body is rested for people to pay their last respect, at 11:30 a.m., the line has already stretched a long way, the street to the stadium has been blocked for vehicles and people with garland and Koirala’s picture flood the intersections at Tripureshwor and Sundhara.

Supporters with GP Koirala poster sits out side of Tripureshwor stadium during paying the last tribute to Koirala body on Sunday, March 21, 2010. Photo: Bijay Rai/ Nagarik/ Republica/

It’s good to see how the civil society unifies at times of national tragedies regardless of their political affiliations, likes and dislikes for the person of whom the memories only remain.

While people have been flooding to the football stadium, the Nepali media has been pouring news and commentaries about the former PM and Nepali Congress leader who had a pivotal role in construction of peace process with the Maoists and then the April Revolution in 2006 that ended the monarchy, turning the country into a republic.

In every newspaper today, Nepali and English, Koirala is the focal point. Condolences have come from all across the globe; Political leders including the Unified Communist Party Nepal (Maoist) chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal, Dr Baburam Bhattarai, vice-chairman, UCPN (Maoist), President Ram Baran Yadav and other political leaders have expressed their experiences with Koirala along with their sympathy. Here is an op-ed from The Kathmandu Post, editorial from Republica and Nepali Times.

Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal gives his last tribute to the body of NC Chairman Girija Prasad Koirala at Dashrath Stadium, Kathmandu on Sunday, March 21, 2010. Photo: Bijay Gajmer/Republica/Nagarik

In the political playground, the players are constantly saying that his death is a “loss” in Nepali politics and are also questioning where will Nepali Congress lead henceforth and what will the prospect for the peace process hold in future. But it is for the leaders to decide now–leave aside their differences and gather in a common platform to make the constitution on time, restructure the country and build the nation. Koirala wasn’t a one-man leader who did everything on his own–he had his supporters and people who backed him. Now that he has gone, it’s the responsibility of those people who’ve left behind to carry on and take the country forward without any political deadlocks.

While Koirala has passed, it’s some of his legacies that remains in Nepali politics. Today, suddenly it seems Koirala was man of good deeds, which perhaps isn’t so. He was involved in various corruption scams and is remembered for his notoriety of an attempted hijack of A Royal Nepal Airlines flight freighting a lump of Indian currency. But which politician isn’t involved in  scams–sexual or financial fraudulent–right?

But as an era ends in Nepali politics, people have forgotten the dark side of Koirala and what remains in light is what he has done for the country and his achievements in Nepali politics. And I think that’s how it should be. Koirala deserves respect for what he has done and now that he’s gone, it will presumably be his goodwill that will go down in Nepali history.

In Nostalgia: The 2009 SXSW interview

I remember SXSW 2009–the sights, sounds and of course, the music. One thing I miss about not being in the U.S. is the music scene. But I’m glad that while I was there, I made the best of it and I’m glad that I experienced the Austin vibe!

The Gin Riots, four-member band from the United Kingdom, made their U.S. debut at the South by Southwest music festival. With their recently released single “The Polka,” the lads put on a good show in Austin. Vocalist Guy Stevenson, drummer Jack McGruer and guitarists Tim Burton and Cillian Logue make up the band. Burton defines their music as something “to drink and dance to.” Here are the excerpts from an interview with the members of The Gin Riots.

1.    How has SXSW been for The Gin Riots?

Jack McGruer: Impeccable. Loving the free-thinking nature of Austin and its general good time vibes. Plus, there’s hot weather, which means that girls wear little clothing and boys can wear sunglasses to stop the girls seeing you ogle them. Top score.

Tim Burton: SXSW has been an experience and a half for us. It’s been non-stop since we’ve been here, pushing the band to all who will listen and even those who didn’t want to listen.

2.    Any accomplishments from SXSW?

Jack: Depends what you mean by accomplishments. We played some good shows, which I think is sort of the point of it. Apart from that, I feel I displayed my incapability of dealing with drinking and heat, which isn’t really an accomplishment, but vomiting from a taxi cab window is.

Tim: Getting through it without killing each other, nearly got to that point a couple of times.
Guy: We also sold our collective soul to the corporate devil at 6th and Trinity. Didya see him standing there, contract in hand and an industry pass draped around his big fat red neck? Well, that’s who we made a pact with.

Cillian: I gots me a tan …

3. What’s the difference in playing in the UK and the US?

Jack: The crowds in the US are much more accepting and much less snobby. They’re very open-minded with their music. It’s not all scene-orientated out here, which, again, is very refreshing.

Tim: The US, because it is a new audience that haven’t really experienced a live show from us were very receptive to us and our songs. The UK audience are more reserved and need more pushing to get into the songs.

Guy: People here don’t hold back so much. Back in London, there’s a big ol emphasis on weighing up whether a band fits your scene – do they represent what you’re about? are they wearing the clothes you wear? I guess it’s a same to some extent the world over but here it looks like people are open to music for music’s sake

4.    How do you like your first US visit?

Jack: It was cool. Crowds over here seem to appreciate our sound quite a lot, which is both refreshing and encouraging. Plus, coming here with an accent is cool. Seems to let you get away with murder. But that’s another story…

Tim: The people of Austin that we have met have been the nicest I’ve probably ever met, so welcoming. The US is so different to the UK in that way, people in the UK can be a little cold.

Guy: We’ve been meaning to come over for a wee while now so it was kinda heart-warming to get the kind of reception we got.

5.    What things did you particularly like and dislike about the US?

Jack: I disliked the visa process and the experience of US Customs. They seem to have little sympathy to people who’ve been without nicotine for 9 hours and, frankly, it should be a prerequisite for the job.

Tim :I liked the people of the US a lot, there’s not really anything I disliked.

Cillian: I guess we’re used to London where people kind of keep their distance from each other and it’s all built around looking after yourself and no one else. Here, its a lot more hospitable and laid back. I think we kinda loved and hated Texan food – after a week of eating TexMex every day, we were definitely ready for something lighter. We’d all be a lot fatter if we lived over in the US.

The Health (Lifestyle) Beat

When I joined Republica, it was the only beat left: health. I took it reluctantly then but now, after working for about two months, I’m happy with it.

Let me clarify first: When I say health, I basically write about health and lifestyle rather than digging into government policies and all. That’s for the social affairs department.

Till date, I have worked on stories from winter walks in the morning, good or bad, to the hospice center for cancer patients, kidney disease, fitness regiments and others.

Sadly, the stories have not been uploaded online–the entire Web site needs to be revamped for this. Hopefully, it will soon.

Here is an interview with Dr Mimgmar Gyelzen Sherpa, director of Logistics Management Division at the Department of Health Services under the Ministry of Health, about  telemedicine published in Republica, March 17, 2010.

Nepali Runway

Last night, for the first time, I attended a Nepali runway show. As a part of my job, I along with my friend, had to cover the 12th IEC Designer Contest 2010.

And during the entire two-hour show, during each of the 138 designs displayed, I was sitting, taking notes and thinking what to write. Well, I ain’t a fashion commentator or was there to review the show. So just an update of the event!

But so as to speak, the designs were a disaster. I don’t know what went wrong–some of the designers had a lot of potential, it looked like it. But they lacked on a lot of levels: creativity, execution of their designs, style…I think one can go on and on about it. Most of the designs, though there were 138, looked duplicated. Did the designers sit in one room and brainstormed?

And what was up with dresses with stupid themes. I mean, they were trying to give a message through their creations but c’mon, just try to be a little more effective and put a little more effort. A dress with condoms stuck around…they weren’t even stuck properly and they fell on the ramp! Dress with message against ethnic federalism in Nepal that was so yucky that we couldn’t stop laughing. And there are just too many to comment but….

So, what goes wrong in these contests that are very hyped but no result. I think there is a lack of understanding in what fashion really is. They were students at one of Nepal’s reputed fashion designing schools but didn’t seem like it. Or maybe it’s the themes set for the evening that made their constrained to what they had to do. But even if they were constrained, they could have delivered their best apart from the limitations.

Anyways, I can’t ramble about them since I ain’t a pro in the topic.

It was my first time to peek into the Nepali fashion scene and I didn’t quite enjoy the view. Maybe in coming times, there will be a slight progress. The Nepal Fashion Week…maybe I can go again for another view.

Hearts & Club Motorcycyle Club, Pokhara

A story about Pokhara’s motorcycle club established by Rick Magill and Moniek Wittens.

Published: March 5, The Week, Republica